Barton Hall
Barton Hall was sold by
Christopher Noles' daughter and co-heir, to Thomas Culpeper
(possibly Sir Thomas Culpeper10 of Bedgebury, or
Sir Thomas Culpeper11 of Wakehurst) on whose
decease his son had livery of it in the reign of Philip and
Mary (1553-1558). (Hasted II-147)
(If this house is still standing, a photograph is desired.)
Greyfriars
Anne Culpeper, widow of
Henry Agar, Esq., by her will in 1532 ordered to be buried
at the Friar's Observant's at Canterbury if she died there.
(Hasted II-147)
According to the
Greyfriars
House website (from which the photograph at the right
was copied), a recent restoration has modernised the
facilities whilst retaining the historical features, which
date back to the 12th Century, when the first Franciscan
monks built Greyfriars House as the gatehouse to their
Monastery
Canterbury, Kent
1831 Topographical Dictionary:
CANTERBURY, an ancient city, having separate jurisdiction, locally
in the hundred of Bridge and Pethar, lathe of ST. AUGUSTINE, eastern
division of the county of KENT, 26 miles (S. E. by E.) from
Rochester, 16 (N. W. by W.) from Dover, and 55 (E. by S.) from
London, containing 12,745 inhabitants, and, including the suburbs
and portions of parishes which are without the liberties of the
city, 15,373. This place, the origin of which is not distinctly
known, is, from the discovery of numerous Druidical relics, supposed
to have been distinguished at a very early period for the
celebration of the religious rites of the Britons prior to the
Christian era. That it was a British town of considerable importance
before the Roman invasion, is not only confirmed by the numerous
celts, and other instruments of British warfare, that have been at
various times found in the vicinity, but by the name of the station
which the Romans fixed here on their establishment in the island,
and which they called Durovernum, a name obviously derived from the
British Dwr a stream, and whern swift, an appellation characteristic
of the Stour, upon which it is situated. From this station three
roads branched off to Rhutupis, Dubrœ, and Lemanum, now Richborough,
Dover, and Limne respectively. By the Saxons, who, on their arrival
in Britain, were established in this part of Kent, it was called
Cantwara-byrig, from which its present name is evidently deduced.
Canterbury was the metropolis of the Saxon kingdom of Kent, and the
residence of its kings: Bertha of France, queen of Ethelbert, having
been educated in the principles of Christianity, was by treaty
allowed the free exercise of her religion, and suffered to bring
over with her a limited number of ecclesiastics. During the
occupation of the city by the Romans, the Christian religion had
been partially promulgated; and in the second century, two churches
having been built, one of them, on Bertha's arrival, was consecrated
for her use by the Bishop of Soissons, and dedicated to St. Martin.
In Ethelbert's reign, Augustine, who had been sent by Pope Gregory
to convert the Britons to Christianity, took up his station at
Canterbury, where, through the influence of Bertha, he was
courteously received: his mission was attended with success; the
king, who soon became a convert, resigned him his palace, which he
converted into a priory for brethren of his own order; and, in
conjunction with Ethelbert, he founded an abbey without the city
walls, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul: being invested by the
pope with the dignity of an archbishop, he made this city the seat
of the metropolitan see, which distinction it has retained for more
than twelve centuries, under an uninterrupted succession of ninety
archbishops, many of whom have been eminent for their talents and
their virtues, and distinguished by the important offices they have
held in the administration of the temporal affairs of the kingdom :
among these may be noticed Dunstan, who governed the kingdom with
absolute authority during the reigns of Edred and Edwy; Stigand,
who, for his opposition to William the Conqueror, was displaced from
his see; Lanfranc, his successor, who rebuilt the cathedral, and
founded several religious establishments; the celebrated Thomas a$$
Becket; Stephen Langton, who was raised to the see in defiance of
King John; Cranmer, who, for his zeal in promoting the Reformation,
was burnt at the stake in the reign of Mary; and Laud, who, for his
strenuous support of the measures of his sovereign, Charles I., was
beheaded during the usurpation of Cromwell. The abbey was intended
as a place of sepulture for the successors of the archbishop in the
see of Canterbury, and for those of the monarch in the kingdom of
Kent: the cathedral; which was not completed at the time of
Augustine's decease, was dedicated to our Saviour, and it is still
usually called Christ Church.
The city suffered frequently from the ravages of
the Danes, of whom, on their advancing against it in 1009, [p.338]
the inhabitants, by the advice of Archbishop Siricius, purchased a
peace for the sum of £30,000, binding them by an oath not to renew
their aggressions; but in 1011, they again landed at Sandwich and
laid siege to the city, which, after a resolute defence for three
weeks on the part of the inhabitants, they took by storm and reduced
to ashes. In this siege, forty-three thousand two hundred persons
were slain, more than eight thousand of the inhabitants were
massacred, and among the prisoners whom they carried off to their
camp at Greenwich, was Alphege, the archbishop, whom they afterwards
put to death at Blackheath, for refusing to sanction their
extortions. Canute, after his usurpation of the throne upon the
death of Edmund Ironside, contributed greatly to the rebuilding of
the city, and the restoration of the cathedral; and, placing his
crown upon the altar, gave the revenue of the port of Sandwich for
the support of the monks. From this time the city began to revive,
and continued to flourish till the Norman Conquest, when, according
to Stowe, it surpassed London in extent and magnificence. In
Domesday-book it is described, under the title “;Civitas Cantuariæ,”
as a populous city, having a castle, which, as there is no previous
mention of it, was probably built by the Conqueror, to keep his
Saxon subjects in awe; the remains now visible are evidently of
Norman character. In 1080, the cathedral was destroyed by fire, but
was restored with greater splendour, and dedicated to the Holy
Trinity, by Aichbishop Lanfranc, who rebuilt the monastic edifices,
erected the archbishop's palace, founded and endowed a priory, which
he dedicated to St. Gregory, and built the hospitals of St. John and
St. Nicholas. In 1161, the city was nearly consumed by fire, and it
suffered materially from a similar calamity at several subsequent
periods. In 1170, the memorable murder of Thomas à Becket was
perpetrated in the cathedral, as he was ascending the steps leading
from the nave into the choir: his subsequent canonization tended
greatly to enrich the city and the church, by the costly offerings
of numerous pilgrims of all ranks, who came not only from every part
of England, but from every place in Christendom, to visit his
shrine. From this source a rich fund was obtained for the
enlargement and embellishment of the cathedral, whereby it rapidly
recovered from the repeated devastations to which it was exposed,
and from which it invariably arose with increased magnificence. Four
years after the murder of Becket Henry II. performed a pilgrimage to
Canterbury, where, prostrating himself before the shrine of the
martyr, he submitted to be scourged by the monks, whom he had
assembled for that purpose. In 1299, the nuptials of Edward I. and
Margaret of Anjou were celebrated with great pomp in this city,
which, in the reign of Edwrd IV., was constituted a county of
itself, under the designation of the “;City and County of the City
of Canterbury.” Little variety henceforward occurs in the civil
history of this city, the interests of which were so closely
interwoven with the ecclesiastical establishments, that, upon their
dissolution in the reign of Henry VIII., its prosperity materially
declined.
The jubilees which, by indulgence of the pope,
were celebrated every fiftieth year, in honour of St. Thomas à
Becket, caused a great influx of wealth into the city, which owed
much of its trade to the immense number of pilgrims who came to
visit his shrine: according to the city records, more than one
hundred thousand persons attended the fifth jubilee, in 1420, when
the number and richness of their offerings were incredible; the last
of these jubilees was celebrated in 1520. The dissolution of the
priory of Christ church was effected gradually; the festivals in
honour of the martyr were successively abolished, his gorgeous
shrine was stripped of its costly ornaments, and the bones of the
saint were, according to Stowe, ultimately burnt to ashes, and
scattered to the winds: the revenue, at the dissolution, was
estimated at £2489. 4. 9., a sum greatly inferior to the actual
value of its numcrous and extensive possessions. At this period part
of the monastery of St. Augustine was converted by Henry VIII. into
a royal palace, in which Queen Elizabeth held her court for several
days: during her reign, the Walloons, driven from the Netherlands,
by persecution on account of their religious tenets, found an asylum
at Canterbury, where they introduced the weaving of silk and stuffs;
their descendants are still numerous in the city and its
neighbourhood, and continue to use, as their place of worship, the
crypt under the cathedral, which was granted to them by Elizabeth,
and where the service is performed in the French language. Charles
I., in 1625, solemnized his marriage with Henrietta Maria of France
at this place; and during the war in the reign of that monarch, the
city was occupied by a regiment of Cromwell's horse, that committed
great havoc in the ecclesiastical buildings then remaining, and
wantonly mutilated and defaced the cathedral, which they used as
stabling for their horses. A political tumult occurred in 1647, in
which originated the celebrated Kentish Association in favour of
Charles I., that terminated in the siege of Colchester, and in the
execution, after its capture, of Lord Capel, Sir Charles Lucas, and
Sir George Lisle. Charles II., on his return from France at the
Restoration, held his court in the royal palace at Canterbury, for
three days; and in 1676, that monarch granted a charter of
incorporation to the refugee silk weavers settled in this city, who,
on the revocation of the edict of Nantes in 1685, were joined by a
considerable number of other artizans from France.
The city is pleasantly situated in a fertile vale
environed with gently rising hills, from which numerous streams of
excellent water descend, and is intersected by the river Stour,
which, dividing and re-uniting its stream, forms several islands, on
one of which, anciently called Birmewith, the western part of the
city is built. It still occupies the original site, and is of an
elliptic form: the Romans surrounded it with walls that appear to
have been built of flint and chalk, and to have included an area one
mile and three quarters in circumference, defended by a moat one
hundred and fifty feet in width; of these nearly the whole is
remaining, and on that part which forms the terrace of the
promenade, called Dane John's Field, are four of the ancient towers
in good preservation; the arches over the river have been taken down
at various times, and of the six gates that formed the principal
entrances, only the west gate, through which is the entrance from
the London road, is standing; it is a handsome embattled structure
erected about the year 1380, by Archbishop Sudbury, who also rebuilt
a considerable portion of the city wall, and consists of a centre
flanked by two round towers, having their foundations in the bed of
the [p.339] western branch of the Stour, over which is a stone
bridge of two arches, that has been widened for the accommodation of
carriages and foot passengers, for each of which, an approach has
been cut through the city walls. The principal streets, intersecting
at right angles, and the smaller streets, were originally paved
under an act of parliament obtained in the reign of Edward IV.; they
were subsequently made more convenient by an act passed in 1787, for
the improvement of the city, and are now lighted with gas by a
company established under an act obtained in 1822: the inhabitants
are amply supplied with water conveyed into their houses from the
river, by a company established in 1824, by act of parliament; and
with excellent spring water brought from St. Martin's Hill, into a
spacious conduit in one of the ancient towers on the city wall,
whence it is distributed to the most populous parts of the city, at
the expense of the corporation. The houses in some parts of the town
retain their ancient appearance, with the upper stories projecting;
the greater part of the old Checquers Inn, mentioned by Chaucer, as
frequented by pilgrims visiting Becket's shrine, has been converted
into a range of dwelling-houses, extending from St. Bredman's church
nearly half way down Mercery lane; and the remains of the palace of
Sir Thomas More, in the dancing-school yard in. Orangestreet, are
now used as a warehouse for wool; in other parts of the city the
houses are in general handsome, and many of them modern and well
built.
The environs are pleasant, and the surrounding
scenery agreeably diversified with simple and picturesque beauty: on
the road to the Isle of Thanet are extensive barracks for cavalry,
artillery, and infantry of the line; the cavalry barracks, erected
in 1794, at an expense of £40,000, are a handsome range of brick
building occupying three sides of a quadrangle, and with the several
parades and grounds for exercise, comprise sixteen acres, enclosed
with lofty iron palisades: the barracks for two thousand infantry,
erected near the former in 1798, have been since made a permanent
station for detachments of the royal horse and foot artillery: the
barracks erected on the site of St. Gregory's priory and in other
parts of the city, have been taken down, and new streets of small
houses occupy their place. To the south is Dane John Field, so
called from a lofty conical mount said to have been thrown up by the
Danes, when they besieged the city, or, more probably from its
having been the site of a keep or donjon; it is tastefully laid out
in spiral walks and shrubberies, and planted with lime trees: on the
city wall, by which it is bounded to the south-east, is a fine broad
terrace with sloping declivities covered with turf; on the promenade
is a sun-dial, supported on a handsome marble pedestal, sculptured
with emblematical representations of the seasons, by Mr. Henry
Weeks, a native artist: on the summit of the mount, from which a
fine panoramic view of the city and its environs is obtained, a
stone pillar has been erected, with tablets recording, among other
benefactions, a vote of £60 per annum by the corporation for
keeping the promenade in order. The Philosophical and Literary
Institution is a chaste and elegant edifice of the Ionic order, with
a handsome portico of four columns, erected by subscription in 1825,
after the model of a temple on the river Illyssus in Greece; it
comprises a spacious museum in which an extensive and valuable
collection of minerals, fossils, and natural curiosities, collected
by Mr. W. Masters, is scientifically arranged in an order peculiarly
adapted to assist the student in natural history, an extensive and
well assorted library, and a theatre in which lectures on literary
and scientific subjects are delivered every Tuesday evening
throughout the year; the museum is gratuitously open to the public
daily. The theatre, a neat and commodious edifice, erected by Mrs.
Sarah Baker, was first opened in 1790; opposite to it is a
concert-room belonging to the members of the Catch Club, in which
subscription concerts take place every Wednesday evening during the
winter months. Assemblies are held in a handsome suite of rooms
built by subscription; and races take place in the month of August
upon Barham Downs, within three miles of the city: the course, on
which there is a commodious stand, has been greatly enlarged.
The manufacture of silk, established by the Walloons under the
auspices of Queen Elizabeth, and which had flourished in such a
degree as to obtain from Charles I. a charter of incorporation, gave
place in 1789 to the introduction of the cotton manufacture by Mr.
John Callaway, master of the company of weavers, who discovered a
method of interweaving silk with cotton in a fabric still known by
the name of Canterbury, or Chamberry muslin; the small remains of
the silk manufacture, at present employing but few persons, is
conducted by his grandson: a considerable trade in long wool is
carried on; but the principal source of employment for the labouring
class is the cultivation of hops, for the growth of which the soil
is peculiarly favourable, and with extensive plantations of which
the neighbourhood abounds: a great quantity of corn is also
cultivated in the vicinity, and forms a material part of its trade.
The city is geologically situated on the plastic clay of the London
basin, with which red bricks and tiles are made; and at a short
distance to the south-east, flint imbedded in chalk is found in
abundance, from which lime of an excellent quality is produced.
There are numerous mills on the banks of the river, several of them
extensive, particularly that called the Abbot's mill, from its
having anciently belonged to the abbey of St. Augustine; it is now
the property of the corporation, having been purchased by them in
1543. Canterbury has been long celebrated for its brawn. Frequent
attempts, attended with considerable expense, have been made to
improve the navigation of the river Stour; an act was obtained, in
1825, to make it navigable to Sandwich, and to construct a canal
from that port to a harbour to be formed near Deal, but the
undertaking has not yet been commenced: in the same year an act was
obtained for the formation of a railway to Whitstable, whence there
is a regular conveyance by water to London; this has been carried
into effect, and promises to be of great advantage to the trade of
the city. The market for cattle, corn, hops, and seeds, is on
Saturday; and the market for provisions daily: the cattle market is
held on the site of the ancient city moat, in the parish of St.
George without the walls; the corn, hop, and seed market is held in
a spacious room in the Corn and Hop Exchange, a handsome building
recently erected, in the composite order, ornamented with the city
arms and appropriate devices, behind which is a spacious area for
the daily [p.340] market for meat and vegetables; the market for
eggs, poultry, and butter, is held in the ancient butter market,
near Christ-church gate, and there is a convenient market-place for
fish in St. Margaret's street: these markets are under the
regulation of the corporation by an act passed in 1824. The annual
Michaelmas fair commences on the 10th of October, and continues a
week.
The city, which at the time of the Conquest was
governed by a prœpositus, or prefect, appointed by the king,
received from Henry II. a charter conferring peculiar privileges, in
addition to those it previously enjoyed. Henry III. granted the city
to the inhabitants at a fee-farm rent of £60, and empowered the
citizens to elect two bailiffs, who were superseded by a mayor in
the reign of Henry VI., who granted them the privilege of choosing a
coroner. Edward IV. confirmed the preceding charters, remitted more
than one fourth of the fee-farm rent, and constituted the city a
county of itself. Henry VII. limited the number of aldermen to
twelve, and of the common council-men to twenty-four; and Henry
VIII., by act of parliament in the 35th of his reign, empowered the
mayor and aldermen to levy a fine of six shillings and eightpence
per day upon all strangers who should keep shops, or exercise any
trade in the city. James I., in the sixth year of his reign,
confirmed all the former charters and privileges, and
re-incorporated the citizens, under the title of the mayor and
commonalty of the city of Canterbury. The government, under these
several charters, is vested in a mayor, recorder, chamberlain,
sheriff, twelve aldermen, and twenty-four common council-men,
assisted by a town clerk, who is also coroner, a sword bearer, mace
bearer, four serjeants at mace, and subordinate officers. The mayor
is chosen on Holy-rood day, by the freemen, from among the twelve
aldermen, who nominate two of their own body for election, and is
sworn into office on the festival of St. Michael: the aldermen are
selected from the common council-men, by a majority of their own
body; and the common council-men are chosen from the resident
freemen, in the same manner: the sheriff is chosen annually by a
majority of the mayor and aldermen, from among the common
council-men; and the recorder, chamberlain, and town clerk, are
elected by a majority of the corporation. The mayor, recorder, and
such of the aldermen as have passed the chair, are justices of the
peace. The freedom of the city is inherited by birth, or acquired by
servitude, gift, marriage with a freeman's daughter, and by
purchase. The city is divided into six wards, named after the six
ancient gates, over each of which two aldermen preside, who hold a
court leet, with view of frank-pledge, in October, when a constable,
borseholder, and six commissioners of pavements are appointed for
each ward. The corporation hold a court of burghmote on the first
Tuesday in every month, at which the mayor or his deputy presides,
assisted by the aldermen and common council-men, a majority of each
of whom is necessary to constitute a court: this court, which is a
court of record, and has been held from time immemorial, is convened
by the blowing of a horn. They also hold courts of quarter session
for the trial of capital offenders and misdemeanants, and a court of
petty session on the first Saturday in every month, for minor
offences. The mayor's court, which is also a court of record, is but
rarely held; the last instance of its exercising jurisdiction in
civil pleas was in February, 1793. A court of requests is held every
Thursday, under an act passed in the 25th of George II., for the
recovery of debts under 40s., within the city and liberties; but the
precinets of the cathedral, the archbishop's palace, St. Augustine's
abbey, and other privileged places, are exempted from its
jurisdiction. The guildhall is an ancient and lofty building,
containing the various court-rooms for holding the city sessions,
and apartments for transacting the business of the corporation; the
interior is decorated with portraits of the most distinguished
benefactors to the city, and with various pieces of ancient armour.
In 1453, Henry VI. granted to the corporation the custody of his
gaol at Westgate, which gate from that time at least, if not
previously, has been used as the city gaol; considerable additions
have been recently made to it, and a house for the gaoler was
erected in 1829, in a style corresponding with the character of the
original building; airing yards have lately been formed and other
improvements effected. The city has continued to return two members
to parliament since the 23rd of Edward I.; the right of election is
vested in the freemen at large, the number of whom is about two
thousand: the sheriff is the returning officer. The quarter sessions
for the eastern division of the county are regularly held here, and
the petty sessions on the first Saturday in every month; and a
king's commission of sewers, having jurisdiction over the several
limits of East Kent, hold a session four times in the year at the
sessions house. The sessions house, and common gaol and house of
correction, form an extensive pile of building within the precinct
of the abbey of St. Augustine; the latter comprises nine divisions,
with day-rooms and airing yards for the classification of prisoners,
who are employed at the tread-wheels, and in various kinds of
productive labour.
The primacy, though immediately delegated by the
pope to the see of Canterbury, was not
maintained without considerable difficulty; its establishment was
violently opposed by the native British prelates, who refused to
acknowledge the supremacy either of the archbishop or the pope. Offa,
King of Mercia, attempted to divide the jurisdiction, and the
archbishops of York persevered in asserting their claims, but the
archbishop of Canterbury was ultimately
acknowledged Primate and Metropolitan of all England. In this
dignity he ranks as first peer of the realm, and, with the exception
of the royal family, takes precedence [p.341] of all the nobility
and chief officers of state; at coronations he places the crown upon
the head of the sovereign; the bishops of London, Winchester,
Lincoln, and Rochester, are respectively his provincial dean,
sub-dean, chancellor, and chaplain; he is a privy councillor in
right of his primacy, and has the power of conferring degrees in the
several faculties of divinity, law, and physic, except within the
immediate jurisdiction of the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge.
The province of Canterbury comprehends the
sees of twentyone bishops, including the four Welch sees: the
diocese comprises two hundred and fifty-seven parishes in the county
of Kent; and nearly one hundred parishes in that and other counties
are in the peculiar jurisdiction of the archbishop. The
ecclesiastical establishment consists of an archbishop, dean,
archdeacon, twelve prebendaries, six preachers, six minor canons,
six substitutes, twelve lay clerks, ten choristers, two masters,
fifty scholars, and twelve almsmen. The cathedral, dedicated to our
Saviour, originally the church of the monastery founded by St.
Augustine, on the site of the palace of Ethelbert, King of Kent,
rebuilt by Archbishop Lanfranc soon after the Conquest, and enlarged
and enriched by several of his successors, is a magnificent and
splendid structure, exhibiting in their highest perfection the
richest specimens in every style of architecture, from the earliest
Norman to the latest English, and is equally conspicuous for the
justness of its proportions, the correctness of its details, and the
richness of its decoration. Its form is that of a double cross, with
a lofty and elegant tower rising from the intersection of the nave
and the western transepts, in the later style of English
architecture, with a pierced parapet and pinnacles, and having
octagonal turrets at the angles terminating in minarets. At the west
end are two massive towers, of which the north-west is in the Norman
style, and the south-west, though crowned with battlements, is of
similar character, and little inferior to the central tower :
between the western towers is a narrow entrance, through a sharply
pointed arch, with deeply receding mouldings, surmounted by canopied
niches, over which is a lofty and magnificent window of six lights,
decorated with richly stained glass representing figures of the
saints. The south-west porch, which is the principal entrance, is a
highly enriched specimen of the later style, and is profusely
ornamented with niches of elegant design; the roof is elaborately
groined, and at the intersections of the ribs, are numerous shields.
The nave which, with the western transepts, is also in the later
style, is peculiarly fine; the roof is richly groined, and supported
by eight lofty piers, which on each side separate it from the
aisles, and of which the clustered shafts are banded, like those of
the early English: the eastern part derives a grandeur of effect
from the numerous avenues leading from it to the various chapels in
different parts of the interior; of these the chapel of Henry IV. is
conspicuous for the elegant simplicity of its design and the
beautiful fan tracery depending from the roof; the lady chapel,
separated from the eastern side of the transept by a finely carved
stone screen, is small, but exquisitely beautiful; the chapel of the
Holy Trinity, in which was the gorgeous shrine of St. Thomas à
Becket, opens into that part of the cathedral called Becket's Crown,
where is preserved the ancient stone chair in which the archbishops
are enthroned: there are various other chapels equally deserving of
attention. A triple flight of steps leads from the nave into the
choir, which are separated by a stone screen of exquisite
workmanship: the roof, which is plainly groined, is supported on
slender-shafted columns, alternately circular and octagonal, with
highly enriched capitals of various design; this part of the
structure is chiefly in the early English intermixed with the Norman
style, which prevails also in the triforium, and other parts of the
choir, and in the eastern transept: the archbishop's throne, on the
south side of the choir near the centre, and the stalls of the dean
and prebendaries, are strikingly elegant; a new altar-piece, in
accordance with the prevailing style of architecture, has been
recently erected with the Caen stone of St. Augustine's monastery:
the whole length of the cathedral from east to west is five hundred
and fourteen feet, the length of the choir one hundred and eighty,
the length of the eastern transepts one hundred and fifty-four, and
the length of the western one hundred and twenty-four. Under the
whole building is a spacious and elegant crypt, the several parts of
which correspond with those of the cathedral; the western part is in
the Norman style, and the eastern in the early style of English
architecture: the vaulted roof is about fourteen feet in height, and
supported on massive pillars, of which the prevailing character is
simplicity and strength, though occasionally sculptured with foliage
and grotesque ornaments. Near the south end of the western transept,
Edward the Black Prince, in 1363, founded a chantry, endowing it for
two chaplains, with his manor of Vauxhall, near London ; there are
some remains of the chapel, consisting of the vaulting of the roof,
supported on one column in the centre: near the centre of the crypt
are the remains of the chapel of the Virgin, at the east end of
which was her statue in a niche, supported on a pedestal sculptured
in basso relievo with various subjects, among which the Annunciation
may be distinctly traced. The western part is still called the
French church, from its having been given by Queen Elizabeth to the
Walloons and the French refugees, and from the service being still
performed there in the French language. The cathedral contains many
splendid and interesting monuments, and other memorials of the
archbishops, deans, and other dignitaries of the church, and of
illustrious persons who have been interred within its walls; in the
arches surrounding the chapel of the Holy Trinity, are the tomb of
Henry IV. and his queen, Joan of Navarre, whose recumbent figures,
arrayed in royal robes, and crowned, are finely sculptured in
alabaster; the monument of Edward the Black Prince, whose effigy in
complete armour and in a recumbent posture, with the arms raised in
the attitude of prayer, is finely executed in gilt brass and
surmounted by a rich canopy, in which are his gauntlets and the
scabbard of his sword; there is also the cenotaph of Archbishop
Courteney, with a recumbent figure of that prelate in his pontificals. In the north aisle of the choir are the splendid
monuments of the archbishops Chicheley and Bourchier. In the chapel
of the Virgin are monuments to the memory of six of the deans ; and
in that of St. Michael are those of the Earl of Somerset, and of the
Duke of Clarence, second son of Henry IV., whose effigy, with that
of the duchess in her robes and coronet, is beautifully sculptured
in marble; here are also the monuments of Archbishop Langton, and of
Admiral Sir George Rook. In the south aisle of the choir are those
of the Archbishops Reynolds, [p.342] Walter Kemp, Stratford,
Sudbury, and Meopham ; and within an iron palisade on the north side
of Becket's Crown, is the tomb of Cardinal Pole, the last of the
archbishops who were buried in the cathedral: there are several
monuments in the crypt, among which are some to the most
distinguished individuals that have been connected with the county.
The precincts of the cathedral comprehend an area three quarters of
a mile in circumference: the principal entrance is on the south
side, through Christ-church gate, erected by Prior Goldstone in
1517, and exhibiting, though greatly mutilated, an elegant specimen
in the later style of English architecture; the frontis richly
sculptured, and ornamented with canopied niches, and consists of two
octangular embattled towers, with a larger and a smaller arched
entrance between them, the wooden doors of which are carved with the
arms of the see, and those of Archbishop Juxon. On the north side is
the library, containing a valuable collection of books, and a series
of Grecian and Roman coins; in the centre is an octagonal table of
black marble, on which is sculptured the history of Orpheus,
surrounded with various hunting pieces: a passage, from the north
transept of the cathedral to the library, leads into a circular room
called “;Bell Jesus,” the lower part of which is of Norman
character ; it is lighted by a dome in the centre, under which is
placed the font, removed from the nave of the cathedral. On the east
side of the cloisters is the chapter-house, a spacious and elegant
building, containing a hall ninety-two feet in length, thirty-seven
in width, and fifty-four in height; on the sides are the ancient
stone seats of the monks, surmounted by a range of trefoil-headed
arches supporting a cornice and battlement; the east and west
windows are large, and enriched with elegant tracery, and the roof
of oak is pannelled, and decorated with shields of arms and other
ornaments. The cloisters form a spacious quadrangle, on each side of
which are handsome windows of four lights; the vaulted stone roof is
elaborately groined, and ornamented at the points of intersection
with nearly seven hundred shields; against the north wall is a range
of stone seats, separated from each other by pillars supporting
canopied arches; on the east side are, a door-way leading into the
cathedral highly enriched, and a Norman arch-way leading to the
dormitory; on the south side is an arched entrance to the
archbishop's palace, the only remains of which are intermixed with
the prebendal houses and offices; among these are the treasury, a
fine building in the Norman style of architecture, the registry,
having a Norman staircase, and the remains of the chapel of the
infirmary.
The city comprises the parishes of All Saints,
St. Alphege, St. Andrew, St. George, the Holy Cross, St. Margaret,
St.Martin, St.Mary Bredman, St.Mary Bredin, St. Mary Magdalene, St.
Mary Northgate, St. Mildred, St. Peter and St. Paul, all in the
diocese, and, with the exception of St. Alphege and St. Martin, in
the archdeaconry, of Canterbury. The living
of All Saints is a rectory with which that of St. Mary in the Castle
is consolidated, rated together in the king's books at £80, and
united with that of St. Mildred's, rated in the king's books at £17.
17. 11., and in the patronage of the Crown. The living of the parish
of St. Alphege is a rectory, exempt from archidiaconal visitation,
and united with the vicarage of St. Mary Northgate ; the former
rated in the king's books at £8. 13. 4., and the latter at £11.
19. 4½, and in the patronage of the Archbishop. The living of St.
Andrew's is a rectory, united with that of St. Mary's Bredman, rated
together in the king's books at £22. 6. 8., endowed with £400
private benefaction, and in the patronage of the Archbishop for two
turns, and the Dean and Chapter for one. The living of St. George's
the Martyr, is a rectory, united with that of St. Mary Magdalene,
the former rated in the king's books at £7. 17. 11., and the latter
at £4. 10., in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter. The living of
St. Peter's is a rectory, united with the vicarage of the Holy
Cross; the former rated in the king's-books at £3. 10. 10., and the
latter at £13. 0. 2½., in the alternate patronage of the
Archbishop and the Dean and Chapter. The living of St. Margaret's is
a donative, endowed with £200 parliamentary grant, and in the
patronage of the Archbishop. The living of St. Martin's is a
rectory, exempt from archidiaconal visitation, and united with the
vicarage of St. Paul's; the former rated in the king's books at £6.
5. 2½., and the latter at £9. 18. 9., and in the patronage of the
Archbishop. The living of St. Mary's Bredin is a vicarage, rated in
the king's books at £4. 1. 5½., endowed with £200 private
benefaction, £200 royal bounty, and £800 parliamentary grant. H.
Lee Warner, Esq. was patron in 1828. Of the several churches, few
possess any distinguishing architectural features; that of St.
Martin, said to have been founded during the occupation of Canterbury
by the Romans, and consecrated for the celebration of the Christian
service prior to the conversion of Ethelbert, is remarkable for its
great antiquity. There are places of worship for Baptists,
Independents, and Wesleyan Methodists, and a synagogue.
The king's free grammar school, coeval with the
establishment of the cathedral, was founded by Henry VIII. for fifty
scholars from all parts of the kingdom; the management is vested in
the Dean and Chapter: belonging to it are two scholarships, of £3.
6. 8. per annum each, for natives of Kent, founded in Corpus Christi
College, Cambridge, and endowed with a portion of the revenue of
Eastbridge hospital, by Archbishop Whitgift in 1569; one of three
exhibitions, of about £15 per annum each, founded in the same
college by Bishop Parker in 1575, in the nomination of the Dean and
Chapter, for such of the sons of their Norfolk, Suffolk, and
Lincolnshire tenants as are educated in this school; a medical
scholarship founded by the same archbishop in Caius College,
Cambridge, for a native of Canterbury,
educated at any of the schools in that city; and one of three
scholarships founded in the same college by John Parker, Esq. in
1580, in the patronage of the archbishop, for a native of Canterbury
educated at the king's school: it has also four scholarships at
either university, founded in 1618 by Robert Rose, Esq., who gave
twenty-six acres of land in Romney Marsh to endowthem; two
exhibitions to any college in Cambridge, founded in 1625, by William
Heyman, Esq., for scholars descended from his grandfather, tenable
for seven years from the time of their leaving school, and, in the
event of their taking orders, to be continued for three years
longer; four scholarships, of £10 per annum each, established in
St. John's College, Cambridge, by a decree of the court of Chancery
in 1652, in lieu of two fellowships and two scholarships founded in
that college by Henry Robinson, [p.343] Esq. in 1643, for natives of
the Isle of Thanet, or, in failure of such, for boys in the county,
if educated at this school; five exhibitions, of £24 per annum
each, to Emanuel College, Cambridge, for bachelors of arts until
they proceed to their master's degree, with preference to the sons
of orthodox clergymen of this diocese, founded in 1719 by Dr. George
Thorpe, prebendary of Canterbury; two Greek
scholarships, of £8 per annum each, founded in the same college by
the Rev. John Brown, B.D.; and one exhibition, of £9 per annum, to
any college in Cambridge, to cease on taking the degree of M.A.,
founded in 1728 by Dr. George Stanhope, Dean of Canterbury.
A society of gentlemen educated at King's school, established for
more than a century, hold an anniversary meeting, when, after
service at the cathedral, where a sermon suitable to the occasion is
delivered by a clergyman educated in the school, a collection is
made for the purpose of founding additional scholarships for
students in this establishment: by the liberality and exertions of
its members, a fund has been raised, that has enabled them to found
an exhibition of £60 per annum, to be held for four years with any
of the preceding; and another of the same value is about to be added
to the numerous advantages enjoyed by scholars on this foundation,
which, from the zealous attention bestowed upon its management by
the Dean and Chapter, promises at least to preserve, if not to
increase, the high reputation it has so long maintained: in addition
to the annual examinations previously established, quarterly
examinations, of which the first took place in November, 1829, have
been instituted under two of the prebendaries, chosen for that
office. Among the eminent men who have received the rudiments of
their education in this school, may be noticed the celebrated Dr.
Harvey, who discovered the circulation of the blood; Dr. Marsh,
Bishop of Peterborough; and Lord Tenterden, the present Lord Chief
Justice of the court of King's Bench. The Blue-coat school was
established by the mayor and commonalty, to whom Queen Elizabeth had
granted an hospital founded prior to the year 1243, by Simon de
Langton, Archdeacon of Canterbury, for poor
priests, with all the lands belonging to it, which, by an act passed
in the 1st of George II., was, for the use of the poor, transferred
to guardians incorporated by the same act, upon their under-taking
also to provide for sixteen poor boys of the city, to be called
Blue-coat boys: the cstate at present produces £795. 8. 6. per
annum; and sixteen boys, nominated by the mayor and commonalty, are
clothed, maintained, and instructed in reading, writing, and
arithmetic, and, on leaving school, are apprenticed with premiums,
which, though originally fixed at £5, are, according to
circumstances, increased to £21. The Grey-coat school is
principally supported by the Dean and Chapter; the mayor and
commonalty give £5 per annum, and there are some other
subscriptions: two boys and one girl are annually apprenticed from
this school by the trustees of Nixon's charity. Two schools, for
children of both sexes, are conducted on Dr. Bell's plan, having
been united to the National Society, in 1812; in which upwards of
four hundred children are instructed.
Eastbridge hospital is supposed to have been
founded by Archbishop Lanfranc, for the entertainment of pilgrims,
and endowed by succeeding archbishops, for a master, five brothers,
and five sisters resident, and an equal number of non-resident
brothers and sisters, above the age of fifty, who must have lived in
the city or suburbs for seven years; the former receive £20 per
annum, and the latter £2. 16. 8. per annum each: the vacancies are
filled by nomination of the mayor, who appoints two candidates, one
of whom is elected by the master. A school for twenty children was
annexed to it by an ordinance of Archbishop Whitgift, confirmed by
act of parliament in the 27th of Elizabeth; it is endowed with a
manor and an estate at Blean, and with an investment of £2624 in
the three per cent. consols, arising from legacies and fines for the
renewal of leases: the present income is £331. 15. 10½.: the
master of the hospital has an annual income of £90. 18. 7¾.,
calculated upon an average balance of receipts and expenditure for
several years; the schoolmaster has a salary of £30 per annum, with
apartments in the hospital; there are thirty scholars at present in
the school. Maynard's hospital was founded about the year 1312, by
Maynor le Riche, an opulent citizen, who endowed it with lands and
tenements for the support of three unmarried brothers, one of whom
is prior and reader, and four unmarried sisters: they are a
corporate body by prescription, having a common seal, and,
exclusively of their apartments and share of fines for the renewal
of leases, receive each £18. 2. 6. per annum from the general
funds. Cotton's hospital, adjoining, was founded in 1605, by Leonard
Cotton, who endowed it for one aged widower, and two widows, who
receive £18. 11. 6. per annum each. These hospitals, which are
united, are under the management of the mayor and aldermen, of whom
the senior alderman is generally appointed master; the right of
appointing the brothers and sisters is vested in the mayor. Jesus'
hospital was founded in 1596, by Sir John Boys, the first recorder
of the city, for a warden, nine brothers, and nine sisters, above
fifty-five years of age, and resident within the city for seven
years, with preference to one brother and one sister of the kindred
of the founder, if above the age of fifty: there are at present
eight brothers and four sisters, who receive each a fixed sum of £20
per annum, and a considerable amount as surplus money: by the
statutes, the warden is bound to instruct twenty children of the
parishes of St. Mary Northgate, St. Paul, St. Mildred, St. Alphege,
and St. Dunstan, who are called out-brothers, and clothed at the
expense of the establishment; six of them are to be apprenticed
annually: the mayor and aldermen, the Dean of Christchurch, and the
Archdeacon of Canterbury, are visitors, and
audit the accounts annually. The Rev. George Hearne, in 1805,
bequeathed £37 per annum, long annuities, for the support of a
Sunday school for the parishes of St. Alphege and St. Mary
Northgate, which was sold in 1812 for £637. 5., and appropriated to
the purchase and adaptation of a building for a National school, in
which fifty-six children of those parishes are instructed. Mr.
Robert Dean purchased premises for the use of a Sunday school in the
parish of the Holy Cross, which he then endowed with £200 stock,
and in 1818 left £800 in the four per cents, as a further endowment
for teaching children on the other days of the week: there are also
several smaller bequests for the instruction of poor children in the
various parishes. St. John's hospital, without the North gate, was
founded in 1084, by Archbishop Lanfranc, who endowed it with £70
per annum, for poor infirm, lame, and blind men [p.344] and women;
at the time of the dissolution its revenue was £93. 15., but it is
now £195. 8. 9.: the establishment consists of a prior, reader,
fifteen brothers, and fifteen sisters resident, who receive each £8
per annum, with a share of some legacies left in trust to the
corporation ; and three brothers and three sisters non-resident, who
receive something less, and do not participate in the legacies: the
archbishop has the exclusive patronage, and appoints the master and
prior. John Smith, Esq., in 1644, bequeathed £200 to build
almshouses, and £32 per annum for their endowment. Smith's
hospital, in the suburb of Langport, without the liberties of the
city, for four brothers and four sisters born within the manor of
Barton, was founded in 1662, by Mrs. Ann Smith, who endowed it with
lands, and with a reserved rent payable by the proprietor of Barton
Court, who has the sole patronage, amounting together to £171.7.4½.
per annum, of which sum she appropriated £32 to the inmates of the
hospital; £20 to the apprenticing of poor children of Hornsey, in
the county of Middlesex ; £20 to the minister of St. Paul's, in
this city ; and the residue to the apprenticing of children of that
parish, with which eight children are placed out annually. Cogan's
hospital was founded in 1657, by Mr. John Cogan, who, by will, gave
his mansion to the corporation in trust, for the residence of six
clergymen's widows; the endowment has been augmented by numerous
subsequent benefactions. The Rev. John Aucher, D.D., by deed in
1696, gave a rent-charge of £60 per annum, for six clergymen's
widows, with preference to those in Cogan's hospital; and a society
raise annually by subscription, £36, which is divided among three
widows of clergymen. Harris' almshouses, in Wincheap, were founded
in 1726, by Thomas Harris, Esq., who endowed them with houses and
land producing £21 per annum, for five poor families, two of the
parish of St. Mary Magdalene, and three of the parish of St.
Michael, not receiving parochial aid. The Kent and Canterbury
Infirmary was opened for the reception of patients on the 1st of
September, 1793, under the auspices of Dr. William Carter, and
patronised by the principal inhabitants of the city and county; the
institution is liberally supported by annual subscriptions of £2.
2., which (or a donation of £21), constitutes a governor; it is
well regulated under the direction of a committee and a weekly board
for superintending the domestic arrangements. The building, which is
spacious, and well adapted to the purpose, was erected on part of
the ancient cemetery of St. Augustine's abbey, and contains
apartments for a house surgeon and sixty patients, the latter
receiving the gratuitous attendance of two physicians and four
surgeons.
Of the numerous monastic establishments that
anciently flourished here, the principal was the abbey which St.
Augustine, in conjunction with Ethelbert, whom he converted to
Christianity, founded for monks of the Benedictine order, and
dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, the revenue of which, at the
dissolution, was £1412. 4. 7.; the remains consist principally of
the gateway entrance, a beautiful specimen of the decorated style of
English architecture, with two embattled octagonal turrets highly
ornamented with canopied niches, and enriched with bands, mouldings,
and cornices; between these turrets is the entrance, through a
finely pointed arch, in which are the original wooden doors richly
carved. One of the towers, called St. Ethelbert's tower, was a fine
structure in the Norman style, highly ornamented in its successive
stages with a series of intersecting arches, part of it fell down in
1822, and part has been since taken down from apprehension of
danger, a portion of the base of the tower, and some trifling
remains of the church belonging to the abbey, are still existing. At
the north-west of the cemetery are the remains of the chapel of St.
Pancras, rebuilt in 1387, on the site of a previous chapel, said to
have been a pagan temple, resorted to by Ethelbert before his
conversion: the remains of this once splendid abbey have been
converted into a public house; the gateway is now a brewery, the
room over it a cock-pit, the church a tennis-court, and the area a
bowling - green. In Northgate - street was a religious house,
founded in 1084, by Archbishop Lanfranc, for secular priests, and
dedicated to St. Gregory, the revenue of which, at the dissolution,
was £166. 4. 5.: the remains, consisting of parts of the walls,
arches, and some windows in the Norman and early English styles of
architecture, are now converted into a pottery, and a tobacco-pipe
manufactory. To the south-east of the city was a Benedictine
nunnery, founded by Archbishop Anselm, and dedicated to St.
Sepulchre, the revenue of which at the dissolution, was £38. 19.7.:
this convent obtained celebrity from the pretended inspiration of
Elizabeth Barton, one of the nuns, called the holy maid of Kent,
who, for denouncing the wrath of the Almighty upon Henry VIII. for
his intended divorce of Catherine of Arragon, was hanged at Tyburn,
with her confederate, Richard Deering, cellarer of Christ Church. To
the right of the city, on the road to Dover, was an hospital
dedicated to St. Lawrence, for leprous monks, founded by Hugh, Abbot
of St. Augustine's, in 1137, and endowed for a warden, chaplain,
clerk, and sixteen brothers and sisters, of whom the senior sister
was prioress; the revenue, at the dissolution, was £39. 8. 6. In
the parish of St. Peter was an hospital, founded by William Cockyer,
citizen, and dedicated to St. Nicholas and St. Catherine, which, in
1203, was united to that of St. Thomas East bridge. In the parish of
St. Alphege was a priory of Dominican, or Black friars, founded
about the year 1221 by Henry III., the only remains of which are the
hall, now a meeting-house for Baptists; and near the hospital for
poor priests was a priory of Franciscans, or Grey friars, founded by
the same monarch in 1224, which was the first house of that order
established in the kingdom; the remains consist chiefly of some low
walls and arches: there are also slight vestiges of a convent of
White friars that once existed here. Numerous relics of British and
Roman antiquity have been frequently discovered; among the latter,
are aqueducts, tesselated pavements, vases, and coins; and a Roman
arch, called Worthgate, considered to be one of the finest and most
ancient structures of the kind in England, has been carefully
removed from that part of the castle-yard which was crossed by the
new road from Ashford, and reconstructed in a private garden. There
are some chalybeate springs, and one slightly sulphureous, in the
extensive nursery grounds of Mr. William Masters, near the west
gate; and without the north gate is a fine spring of water, where a
bath, called St. Rhadigund's bath, has been constructed, with
requisite accommodation. Dr. Thomas Lenacre, founder of the Royal
College of Physicians, in London; Dr. Thomas Neville, [p.345] master
of Magdalene College, and afterwards master of Trinity College,
Cambridge, who was sent by Archbishop Whitgift to tender the English
crown to King James; William Somner, author of the Antiquities of Canterbury,
and of a Saxon Glossary; and W. Frend, M.A., author of the
Ephemeris, were natives of this city: among other literary
characters that have flourished here, may be noticed the Primate
Langton, who first divided the Old and New Testaments into chapters;
Osbern, a monk in the eleventh century, who wrote in Latin the life
of St. Dunstan, and who, from his skill in music, was called the
English Jubal; John Bale, Prebendary of Canterbury
and Bishop of Ossory, the protestant historian and biographer: Isaac
Casaubon, whom, on account of his learning, James I. invited over
from France, and Meric, his son, were both installed prebendaries.
Regarding the preceding text from the 1831
Topographical Dictionary, on 16 Apr 2005, Karen Brayshaw (e-mail)
wrote: "Eastbridge Hospital and St. Thomas's Hospital are one and the
same (renamed after the reformation), which was founded by Edmund, son
of Odbert in 1180, and not Archbishop Lanfranc, who had been dead for
almost a century. It was indeed co-joined with the hospital of St.
Nicolas and St. Katherine, which was founded by William Cockyn. The
documents concerning these foundations still exist in Canterbury
Cathedral Archives."